These days, you don't hear "outdoor lifestyle" and think of 19th-century fonts, a luxurious gold case, cathedral hands, and a sunray-finished dial. But once upon a time, Minerva, the maison that imbued Montblanc with all its know-how, specialized in producing replica watches meant for exploring the globe in the early 20th century. The current Montblanc 1858 line is a modern riff on this era of Minerva history.
And now, Montblanc has updated the line with a fake watch produced in Montblanc's proprietary gold alloy called Lime Gold. It's made of 18K gold, silver, and iron, and it has a subtle green luster to it that complements the fizzy green hues present on the dial.
Initial ThoughtsThe 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 revolves around a duality. On the outside, you see a playful aesthetic from the dial's green accents and the case's green sheen. But inside, it's all business. Minerva ?and, by extension, Montblanc ?makes remarkable movements.
To thoroughly appreciate Montblanc's watches, it helps to know your history. Minerva was created in 1886 and homed in on mastering the manufacturing of precision chronograph movements. By 1923, Minerva had created the Calibre 13-20 with a Breguet balance spring and a column-wheel chronograph drivetrain. (It was a looker, too.) By the '30s, Minerva created Calibres 19-09CH and 17-29 used in stopwatches.
Those two movements informed the design of the modern Montblanc Calibre MB M16.31 inside the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18, and historically, that caliber has been the star of the show when it comes to Montblanc's 1858 line. It's a visual feast, with alternating finishings, and the general look of a high-end, turn-of-the-century pocket fake watch movement, because that's what it's based on. Flip the fake watch over, and there's a dimensionality that jumps out of the case. German silver bridges, coated in 18K gold, tower over one another and nicely frame the Phillips overcoil balance spring.
Montblanc is rooted in Minerva's impressive watchmaking tradition, and that's part of the core identity of the brand. But the inclusion of the Lime Gold case represents something fun and fresh, a sign that Montblanc is willing to take risks with the brand rather than only focusing on the stoic heritage of Minerva.
The 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 is the swan song of Montblanc's former director, Davide Cerrato. It was the last fake watch he developed before leaving the brand. Now it's up to newly appointed managing director Laurent Lecamp to keep leading the scene. We'll be curious to see if Lime Gold is merely Cerrato's quirky postscript or a sign of a whole new direction.
ADVERTISEMENT The BasicsBrand: MontblancModel: 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18Reference Number: 128085
Diameter: 44mmThickness: 14mmCase Material: Lime Gold, a special 18K gold alloyDial Color: Sunray goldIndexes: Arabic numerals in greenLume: Present in handsWater Resistance: 30mStrap/Bracelet: Green nubuck alligator leather strap
The MovementCaliber: Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.31Functions: Monopusher Chronograph, hours, minutes, secondsPower Reserve: 50 hoursWinding: ManualFrequency: 18,000 vphJewels: 25
Pricing & Availability Price: ?9,500Availability: Montblanc Authorized DealersLimited Edition: Yes, limited to 18 pieces.For more, click here.
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